International Basin – Mount Sibbald and Why Not Peak

July 24, 2022

This is Day 1 of 6 days climbing at International Basin with the Alpine Club of Canada General Mountaineering Camp. All climbs are guided by ACMG guides and experienced volunteer leaders. To see an overview of climbs in this area, please click here.

My first day of climbing at the International Basin General Mountaineering Camp was Mount Sibbald. Our ACMG Guide was Hamish Sanderson, and our Camp Manager/Volunteer Leader was Simon. You never know who you are going to be paired with at these camps, and it turned out I’d spend most of my time with these two guys. Indeed, I actually had two ‘private tours’ with Hamish!

When you look at the total time it took us to get around these two peaks, you might think – what the heck took them so long??? Hamish decided to use this as a “training day” for both Simon and us. This meant we spent a lot of time discussing route options, travel techniques, short roping, etc. On the way down the snow slope, we reviewed proper snow travel, as well as enjoying some glissading.

We made the trip over to the second peak, which is affectionally called “Why Not Peak” because, well, we’re here. Why not do it as well?

Gear

Mountaineering boots, helmet, crampons, ice axe, harness, full crevasse rescue kit, and ice screw. Gaiters are an option depending on your pants. Most people carry at least one collapsible pole that can be stored on or in your pack.

Overview

From camp, we hiked climber’s right of the summit, to the base of the rocky ridge. We picked our line up to the ridge, then scrambled the ridge to the summit. Hamish took advantage of the slow day to enjoy a long Summit Lounge, which is a real treat on these camps. We descended off Sibbald, and hiked the flat saddle. We short-roped on a narrow ridge with a short down climb, then up to the summit of Why Not. We backtracked off the summit, then took the snow route down, avoiding the cornice.

Totals – Downloadable Tracks on Gaia, Displayed on Strava

Date: July 24, 2022
Group:  6 (Guide Hamish, Leader Simon, Alisen, Amber, Ro and Rita)
Distance:  4.6  km
Elevation:  513 m (1,693′)
Time:  2 hours 41 minutes moving time. Total time was 7 hrs 25 min (includes learn & lounge)

Mount Sibbald Route

We were up, fed, packed and ready to go by 8:10 am. From camp, we immediately crossed the creek. We used what I called the Everest Ladder, as I figured this was as close as I’d get to the icefield ladders used in the Himalayas.

We followed the creek, and made our way up to the place where the lake should have been. It was a massive snow year, and it was taking forever to melt out. This was actually the planned location for the ACC camp, but there was too much snow so the camp was located further down. We saw a marmot booting it across the snow, trying to get back to its hiding spot.

We roped up to cross the snow, and passed by the Snow School that was in progress. We then discussed various routes to access the ridge. It was interesting to see that the participants chose a much mellower line to the right to gain the ridge, but Hamish took a direct route, which of course, was ideal. This is why I like the GMC and being able to spend time with guides. Always more to learn.

Once on the ridge, we un-roped, and then scrambled along the ridge to the summit. This was very enjoyable and easy scrambling, with a good trail, and fairly stable rock.

Once at the summit, Hamish really relaxed. I’m not sure how busy his summer was, but I could tell he was really enjoying the opportunity to just … relax. After about an hour, we picked up and headed over to Why Not.

Why Not Peak Route

To descend from Mount Sibbald, it’s possible to simply turn around and return the way you came. Indeed, the Snow School came up and down that way after us.

Hamish led the short descent of Sibbald on the opposite side. We then had a nice hike along a wide plateau.

Prior to the Why Not summit, there’s a narrow ridge to traverse. Depending on snow levels, I think it’s possible to descend to the left of this edge and walk along either rock or on the moat. The snow was too high for us, and the moat option wasn’t available. No problem, as this added some spice to our day.

The summit of Why Not Peak was super small, and we had to take turns to get photos from up there.

Why Not Peak Return

Hamish backtracked off the summit of Why Not, and we descended onto the snow prior to the knife-edge, avoiding the good sized cornice to the left. We traversed around the rock wall on skiers right (below Why Not). Once below the rock, we took advantage of the lower angle to unrope and have some fun. We slid down on our butts to cool off. We joined up with our up track, and hiked back into camp.

Mount Sibbald and Why Not Peak were a great way to start off the week. The distance was short, the elevation gain minimal, and the people were great. As it turned out, I’d have quite the busy week, so having a slow day to start was ideal.

Join me for the next adventure of summiting International Mountain.

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Alisen