International Basin Mountaineering ACC Camp

July 23-30th, 2022

Since 1906, the Alpine Club of Canada has hosted a General Mountaineering Camp somewhere in western Canada. In 2022, it was the International Basin in British Columbia. I was on Week 4, and we were blessed with amazingly clear skies, and very warm weather all week.

As always, we had an amazing guiding crew of professional ACMG guides and volunteer leaders. I met ACMG Hamish Sanderson at the 2021 GMC when he was the Camp Manager. This time, he was available to guide everyday, and I was so lucky to get him for three of the six climbing days. Mike McMinn is a volunteer leader based out of Vancouver, who I also met last year. I only had one day with Mike as he was quite busy, but since I got him for International Mountain, I was more than happy. Our Camp Manager was Simon who is a Level 4 ski instructor at Kicking Horse in Golden. He was excellent fun, and we joked around endlessly on our two days together.

The other half of the equation are the camp participants. There are so many people who come back year after year, and that’s what makes these camps extra special. Most of the people who attend are not from Calgary/Canmore, but Vancouver, Kelowna, Ontario and Quebec. It’s quite common to have some Americans, and a few people from Europe. As I get ready to head to the 2023 GMC at the Chess Group, I’m excited to see all my climbing buddies once again.

Special shout-outs go to Mike and Amber McMinn. While Mike is the Volunteer Leader, Amber is an amazing climber and a leader in her own right. I’m always happy to be with her on a climb. Pam, Jeff and their daughter Kate are just delightful. So calm and caring, but also very encouraging. Pam feeds me whenever I’m starving 🙂 David and Iwona surprised everyone last year when they got engaged on our first climb. They are so much fun to be around. Then there are the two Ritas from Winnipeg and Montreal, who have both mastered the art of the Gaelic shrug.

The International Basin

This is a group of mountains in a horseshoe shape. Our camp was on the glacial till, just south of the headwaters of the Bobby Burns Creek. To the north are Mary’s Peak, Miners Peak and David’s Peak. South of camp is the Carbonate Glacier, with Mount Sibbald, Strutt & Sandilands Peaks, Mounts Battlement and International, Richard’s Peak, then finally the two spires, Horseman and Malachite.

With the amazing weather, and camp being so close to the mountains, I was able to climb all six days of camp. Thanks to the amazing guides, I summited seven of the above peaks. Each of those peaks have their own trip report, and can be found below.

Many people visit International Basin because of the Kingsbury Hut that is nestled below Miners Peak. Click the link to read the history of the hut, its namesake, or to book your stay.

Gear for International Basin

It’s possible to stay off the glacier and climb the mountains near the Bobby Burns Creek.

Mountaineers will need 3/4 to full shank mountaineering boots, crampons, helmet, ice axe, harness, full crevasse rescue kit, ice screw and rope. Gaiters are an option. Most people carry at least one collapsible pole that can be stored on or in your pack.

Sun protection is a must. Most people wear long sleeve SPF shirts, and some sort of face protection, like a lightweight hoody, a bandana, or a hat with side flaps. Sun screen alone will not save you from the rays reflecting off the snow, especially on long days.

Bug spray is a must. While DEET can damage your expensive technical fibers, it’s possible to spray your helmet, shirt, and pants. Lack of bug spray can seriously ruin an otherwise great day out. Thankfully, there were limited bugs in camp due to the winds off the glacier, but any climbs north of the Bobbie Burns Creek were mosquito breeding grounds.

General Mountaineering Camp Food

The food is fresh, nutritious, tasty and plentiful! For three years, I brought extra snacks like nuts and bars. For three years, I brought them home uneaten. At this camp, I decided to not bring extra food, and I regretted it. Lunch was really light, and I found myself hungry on the longer days. So this year I will again bring some extra food, just in case.

Every Thursday is turkey night. I’m always on dish duty that night!

While coffee is provided, I bring my own tea, and hydration drink crystals. One box of Tazo chai is enough to get me through the week (I don’t drink coffee). I bring lots of drink crystals and potions to rehydrate in the afternoon. While the water is literally glacier fresh, any incentive to drink more is always welcome. At this camp, due to the extreme heat, the water was never cold as it warmed up flowing through the black PVC tubes from the creek to camp. I filled up my water bag the night before, and the overnight temps would cool it down nicely.

Alcohol is 100% up to you. Bringing an extra brew or shot for your guides is not frowned upon. Some people have Happy Hour prior to dinner. Friday night is the big ‘party’ before we fly out Saturday morning.

GMC Camp Chores

If you’re used to backpacking and doing everything yourself, relax! The tents are already set up. All you have to do is monitor the lines and relax them if the fly gets too tight.

In camp, the Participants are responsible for all breakfast and dinner dishwashing. Guides/Leaders only do dishes on the last night.

Hand washing and good hygiene are the major issues. No one wants an outbreak of vomiting or diarrhea.

The #1 responsibility is to sign up for the next days climbs prior to dinner. Don’t be tardy! I was late signing up once, and I will never make that mistake again. The sooner everyone signs up, the sooner the guides can plan their day and assign leaders. Climbing lists are posted after dinner so we have time to gather gear and get prepared.

Please do not take it personally if you get bumped from a trip. There are many considerations at play. Sometimes a group of friends want to go together, or the guides want to keep speedy people away from the mere mortals. When in doubt, talk to the Camp Coordinator or Camp Manager.

International Basin – Mountain Overview

Below are the eight peaks that I did. Click the links for the full trip report, including downloadable tracks. The other peaks in the area are discussed after.

Day One – Mount Sibbald and Why Not Peak

These two peaks are the closest to camp on the glacier side. Amber and I both wanted to ease into the week, and I am glad I did. These peaks offer a short glacier crossing, an easy scramble ascent, a short traverse, a small bit of short roping, and then a snow descent. A little bit of everything to get going for the week.

Click for Full Trip Report

Day Two – International Mountain

The highest mountain in the area, International is a must-do. Other than the exposed ice wall and some crevasses above, it was fairly straight-forward. On a low snow year, more of the glacier ice might be exposed, adding to the difficulty.

Click for Full Trip Report.

Day Three – Horseman Spire and Malachite Spire

When speaking to Dave Dorian on Week Three, he said that most groups were only going up Malachite Spire. Hamish Sanderson was determined to get Horseman Spire, and thought, why not add in Malachite while we’re here? It was a 12 hour day, but worth it.

Click for Full Trip Report

Day Four – Miners Peak

Miners Peak is on the north side of the Bobbie Burns Creek, and is accessed via a gorgeous meadow and rock bands. The climbing consists of several short pitches, with one confidence move across a chasm. It was a fun day with great company. The descent is an awesome trail down the scree on the back side. Want a mellow day? Just hike up the back.

Click for Full Trip Report

Day Five – Mary’s Peak

Mary’s Peak is the lowest mountain and the closest to camp, but what it lacks in height it makes up for by being the most technically challenging climbing of all the peaks. ACMG Guide Helen Sovdat took a large group up, and everyone gave her major props for managing the climb so well. I went with just three people. It’s a fun mountain for sure. On Week One of the GMC, the weather was pretty rainy, but when they did get a good day, they did both Miners and Mary’s on the same day.

Click for Full Trip Report

Day Six – David’s Peak

David’s Peak is also on the Bobby Burns side, and is up against the Spillimacheen Glacier. The steep snow slope to the summit is challenging, and may require anchors. The descent is challenging with two lowers.

Click for Full Trip Report

Other mountains

Stutt and Sandilands Peaks

I really wanted these two, but it just didn’t work out. Access is from behind the peaks, coming up to the col from the east side of Sandilands. From the col, gain both peaks. Descent is either returning the way you came, or doing a lower from the col to the snow slope below. This saves time, but there was some issues with this and snow stability so each team would have to assess.

Battlement Mountain

I believe we had one group summit Battlement. It’s another long glacier traverse, and I believe I heard the summit block was similar to International Mountain.

I hope you enjoyed this overview of the International Basin. If you go, please be sure to let me know how your mountaineering adventure went. As I was there after a record-setting winter snowfall, a low snow year might provide more glacier and bergschrund challenges.

Alisen