Icefall Traverse Day 1 – Mons Hut, Mons Peak & Glacier Wall

April 18, 2024

This was our first day on the iconic Icefall Traverse. To get an overview of the entire traverse, with all the details on how to book, etc., visit the Icefall Traverse Overview page.

Our crew arrived at the Icefall Lodge staging area at 10:00 am, just past Donald, BC. We were met by a severely stressed cook, who proceeded to berate us at every opportunity. I told Icefall afterwards to next time just sic a pitbull on us, as it would be preferable. Oi. You are warned! Anyhoo – we ignored her as much as possible, signed waivers, and packed our lunches for the next few days.

It was now time to load the helicopter. We flew into the Mons Hut in a six seater AStar with Whitetooth Helicopters. As always, it was a fun ride.

Getting dropped off at Mons Hut was so cool, because there was nothing but white snow. Usually the hut or lodge is visible, but the Mons was completely buried in the snow. It felt like we were dropped off in the middle of nowhere. I was actually giggling a little maniacally. A short walk downhill and we found the hut tucked into the snowbank. Our Guide Jesse told us that the early traverses had to dig down to the hut for a few hours before they could get access.

Mons Peak Summit

Mons Peak is directly above the Mons Hut, and is a very accessible peak. While it is possible to ski from very close to the summit, our snow conditions were not cooperating. It was a great boot pack up the summit block, with fantastic 360 degree views from the summit. We were SO lucky to nab this peak and get these views.

Once we skied down, it was time to go Glacier Gawking!

Days One and Two Video

Mons Peak Totals – Downloadable Tracks on Gaia, Displayed on Strava

Date: April 18, 2024
Group:  Eight (Alisen, Mike, Mike, Amber, Pam, Jeff, David, Iwona, ACMG Jesse, TG Sebastian)
Distance: 8 km
Elevation:  916 m
Time:  6 hours 20 minutes (includes breaks and Ice Wall lounge)

After quickly dropping our non-essential gear, we gathered outside for a some prep work. Jesse took us through our paces in terms of safe avalanche travel, and we did a quick companion rescue avalanche rescue scenario.

Once we were done, Jesse said, “Hey, lets go for a quick lap.” It was already 12:30 pm, so we all thought we’d ski up a bit, and do a short lap or two, and call it a day. So we were a bit surprised when we got to the large flat plateau, and Jesse said “There’s our summit. Pitter patter, lets get atter.” It’s been a LONG time since a summit snuck up on me, but this one sure did.

We just kept skiing up and up and up, and the views kept getting better and better. Finally, the snow got quite crusty and wind-blown, so we made the decision to ditch the skis, and boot pack to the summit. The summit was laid right back, so every time we hit a high point, the next higher bit revealed itself.

The summit of Mons Peak was spectacular. We had some wind, and it was a bit chilly, but it was BY FAR the best high point of the week. I am so glad that Jesse just kept shepherding us up there. We had a fantastic view of the overall Icefall Traverse route, plus we could see down to Icefall Lodge, and over to Mount Kemmel, which we would summit later.

Mons Peak Descent

The boot pack back down always seems steeper than going up. Indeed, we faced inwards for most of it. Once back at our skis, it was a super fast ski back down.

Glacier Wall

I have wanted to do the Icefall Traverse for about 15 years. Why? Icefall Lodge produced a poster that showed someone skiing along the bottom of a giant crevasse. Those high ice walls had me mesmerized. I framed the poster and gazed at it daily. Finally, when I thought I was strong enough, and a good enough skier, I decided to make this trip happen.

When Jesse said, lets go Glacier Gawking, I was so excited. This is what I was waiting for! We skied down below our start line, and found the wall of ice. There was a good sized cornice above it, so we had to duck close to the wall quickly, but once up close, we were safe.

Skill testing question: how old do you think this ice is?

We all guessed anywhere from Laurential ice sheet, to 20,000 years old. I was the closest at 10,000 years old. The correct answer? 300 years! What? No way. Way! I know. The Little Ice Age ranged anywhere from 1300 to 1900. It was not a global ice age, but it affected the North Atlantic region.

Jesse also told us that this ice moves quite a bit, and is not anchored like the ancient ice sheets. I am no expert, but I thought he explained that the ground was warmer when the ice formed, which allowed a bit of a buffer. As such, the ice changes frequently. What we see one day, is gone by the next year. So no, I did not get to ski through a giant crevasse, but I knew that in advance. This was very special, and our whole group was just awed by the ice.

We finally got our skis back on, and skied up to the hut. By this time, it was already 7:30 pm. Holy. Where did the day go? Inside, we found spots for all our gear, and tried to dry out as much as possible. Meanwhile, Jesse and Sebby were hard at work, melting snow, boiling water, and making up our dehyrated meal for the night.

Mons Hut

The Mons and Lyell Huts are basically the same footprint. A long table and kitchen on the main floor, with drying racks scattered throughout. There is an entance, with some big boots for braving the outhouse, and crocs to wear inside.

There are two vertical ladders leading to the bed platform above. The huts were stocked with a variety of bedding. A light-weight sleeping bag, or a heavy wool blanket. We packed a light-weight sleeping bag liner. I chose the full-sized rectangular liner with the pillow sleeve. I was SO happy with my choice. It was super light, soft, and very comfortable. After suffering in a mummy-bag style liner in the Dolomites the previous fall, I was so happy with the extra room.

Some of the huts had pillows, and some didn’t. To be safe, I also packed a blow up pillow. Getting a good sleep is worth the 60 grams of weight.

Dinner was spagetti with sauce. A huge discussion about how much pasta to make was thankfully averted when Iwona took charge, and kept the lid off the boiling pasta water. The big joke for the week was the ‘Rostrum Cabin Cheese Caper’. For some reason, their can of parmesan cheese ended up in our food cache on the helicopter. Since we now had double-rations of cheese, no one held back. Not wanting to carry that big cheese can for the next 5 days, we left it in the Mons Hut. All week, we would hear on the radio that the Rostrum Cabin was without parmesan cheese, and could they please send some up in the helicopter? Not once did Jesse fess up to the Cheese Caper 🙂

We had giant chocolate brownies for dessert, but I couldn’t eat mine. Sebby was only too happy to hoover that down. Did I mention he is 22 years old? Leftover food was not going to be a problem on this trip.

It was here that I introduced the group to the joys of “Hot Iced Tea.” You heard that correclty. Iced Tea mix in hot water. As we had to melt snow, and then boil it, there was no cold water. I learned the Hot Iced Tea trick from Mike’s parents over 25 years ago, as that was their beverage of choice in their ski thermos. Hot, delicious, and a great way to rehydrate, especially if you add a packet of Emergen-C or some gatorade.

Today was an incredible first day on the Icefall Traverse. We lucked out with the BEST guide ever, an amazing tail gunner who would grow into his role with each passing day, and a fun crew to share it with!

Click here to keep the adventure going with Day Two when we ski from Mons Hut to Lyell Hut.

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