Mount McArthur & Mount Pollinger

August 28, 2022

This is Day 3 of 4 in the Little Yoho Valley. Day One is hiking in via Laughing Falls. Day Two is the Whaleback Mountain Traverse, and Day Four is hiking out via the Iceline Trail.

From the Stanley Mitchell Hut / Little Yoho Campground, Mount McArthur is an accessible peak. Kane describes it in his guidebook as an easy hike, with one sketchy downclimb. With lower snow levels, this is now avoidable by hiking around the downclimb to the right. It’s also avoidable if hiked in the opposite direction using the “alternate” route, which I did. Big thanks to Doug Lutz who was here the year prior. His photos and tracks were invaluable for my trip planning.

I was leading a group of 18 Alpine Club of Canada Rocky Mountain Sections members, but I was lucky to have several other trip leaders on the trip. This meant we could offer several trips daily – hiking, scrambling and mountaineering. On this day, there was a group on the President, Mount Kerr, and a third group below us at the base of the des Poilus glacier. It was fun to look around and know who was where, and to keep track of their progress.

We carried ACC provided radios, and did check-ins at set times throughout the day.

Gear

Hiking/scrambing boots, scrambling helmet, poles and regular day pack kit. I also had gators as it was raining, with snow at the summit.

Overview

From the Stanley Mitchell hut (directions to there), go south and cross the Little Yoho River at the bridge. Turn right and head west. Cross the stream below the President glacier. Then cross the Little Yoho River again. Immediately turn right, and plan your ascent up the steep, tree-infested slope. At the top, the elevation gain backs off, as the trail follows the basin between McArthur and Pollinger. At the back of the cirque, angle up and to the right to gain the wide saddle. There’s a good trail from the saddle to the summit, but I kept losing it in the snow.

Hike down from the McArthur summit, heading straight for Mount Pollinger. At the base of the crux, either climb it like the badass you are, or simply go around to the left. Don’t forget to backtrack to tag the summit.

From Pollinger, maintain the same trajectory, descending down the steep scree slope to Kiwetinok Lake. Skirt around to the far west side to the lake. Cross the stream, and follow the trail back to the Little Yoho River. Follow trail back to Stanley Mitchell Hut.

Totals – Downloadable Tracks on Gaia, and Strava

Date: August 28, 2022
Group:  Five (Alisen, Mike, Sonya, Erin and Cathy)
Distance:  11.6  km
Elevation:  991 m (3,270′)
Time:  5 hours 58 minutes (includes lunch, breaks and lake visit)

It’s a mellow start along the Little Yoho River for the McArthur-Pollinger traverse. With the glacier receded from this side, it is now a hike to the summit of McArthur.
I took the “alternate” route to McArthur, which has a steeper elevation to start. I returned using the Kane route, which is a more mellow elevation gain.

Trail Head

If you start from the parking lot at Takkakaw Falls, follow this route to the Little Yoho Valley.

If you start from the Little Yoho campground, either ford the Little Yoho River, or walk east 500 m to cross at the bridge.

If you start from the Stanley Mitchell Hut, walk down to the bridge over Little Yoho River, and turn right towards the Iceline Trail sign. Continue straight. All distances are from the Stanley Mitchell Hut.

It was promising to be a nicer day after the heavy rains the day before. We have just left the Stanley Mitchell Hut, and crossed the Little Yoho River. On the right is Mount McArthur (close right) and Mount Pollinger (far left). The Alternate Route is straight up the light coloured avalanche slope between the two peaks.

Main Trail

Around the 1 km mark, we crossed the first stream coming down from the President Glacier. This is probably the harder of the crossings. During high melt times, I’ve had the water level raise up throughout the day, making the return trip a bit spicy. Look for some cairns to indicate good places to cross.

The Vice-President (left) and The President (right). I’d finally summit The Pres the following winter. The massive moraines give an idea of how big the glacier was. The stream coming down from the glacier is at the base of one of the moraines.

We hiked another 500 m, and then crossed the Little Yoho River again. The main trail continues straight, and up to Kiwetinok Pass. For the McArthur Alternate Route, we turned right, and picked out a line heading up the avalanche slope. There is no trail through the thick trees. This is also the steepest part, but with fresh legs and good company, it went by fairly quickly.

The trail through the moraines is in great shape.
Mike and Cathy crossing the Little Yoho River. As these are avalanche slopes, this is NOT a winter route. I’ve skied here several years, and we stay away from these slopes. Once across the river, turn right immediately and head straight up. We got too far to the left, and had to skootch to the right once at the top.
Alisen casting a critical eye on our slope on the way back down. The ideal line is on the far right side of the avalanche slope.
Looking back at the Presidents, this gives an idea of how tight the trees are. We had some hard battles, but fought our way through.

Once above the trees, we realized we were too far to the left. We worked our way sideways to the right, crossing over a moraine. This put us into the middle of the basin. From here, it was a long hike to the end of the cirque, slowly gaining elevation as we went.

Once above the trees, we could tell we were too far left. We continued up to the top of the slope, then walked across the top to the right. Much easier than side-hilling it across.
At the top, but on the wrong side of this moraine. We hiked up and across the rubble.
While not easy to walk on, this boulder field was pretty interesting. Rocks of all sizes were jumbled together.
We found a small cairn. We turned left here and started making our way up the middle of the basin.
Mike and Erin ahead. Pollinger is on the left, and McArthur is on the right. Straight ahead is the cirque below the wide saddle.

Once in the basin, the trail came and went, but the way was obvious. As we neared the end, we picked out our route to climb out of the cirque. This was slightly right of the end, and was a natural weakness in the wall.

Watermelon snow! I learned this trick from ACMG Guide Roger Laurilla, many years prior. Take the algae on the snow, and squeeze all the moisture out. What’s left is the concentrated algae, which looks and smells just like watermelon!
The end of the cirque. It’s a convoluted array of rock, but there is a general weakness that veers slight right.
This is the side of McArthur. Do not go up that gully. Continue straight to the end of the cirque.
Sonya and Erin had never been this close to a glacier before. Here, Cathy is showing how the glacier drags smaller rocks across the big embedded stones, causing the scrapes and gouges in the rock. This also shows the direction of travel of the glacier.
A look down the convoluted route to the basin below.
Almost out of the cirque, looking across at the steeper rock walls.
Erin and Cathy climbing out of the cirque. Almost at the top of the saddle.

Once we were out of the cirque, it’s a long and wide saddle between McArthur and Pollinger. The route to the summit of McArthur was very straightforward, with a good trail. With the fresh snow, we lost the trail several times, but generally just stayed to the summit ridge.

Mike at the saddle, looking up at the summit of McArthur. This was a very pleasant hike.
The higher we got, the visibility disappeared as we entered the low cloud. Despite it being the end of August, I was now freezing cold and wearing just about everything I owed.
Once tiny glimpse down to the des Poilus glacier. The following winter, Mike and I would ski up the backside of McArthur, and get within meters of the summit.
Mike on the summit, as Alisen walks towards him.
Alisen and Erin on the summit, with Sonya and Cathy on the right. I have a photo of all four of us on the summit, but unfortunately the wide angle lens made the two people on the outside look like they were about 5 feet wide. Not overly flattering!
This is a peak at the snow slope on the other side of the summit. Next winter, we got to just below this point. I’m glad we turned around, because it was very steep, and a slip would lead to a nasty drop.

Distance to summit from Stanley Mitchell hut is 5 km, with ~977m of elevation. Time to summit was 3 hours 20 minutes.

Mount McArthur to Mount Pollinger

We quickly descended from the cold summit of McArthur, beelining it straight for the wide saddle and the sunshine below. The wind was now howling, but we needed to eat. I went to the left to hide behind some rocks, but the wind found us there too. We quickly ate a snack, and headed for Pollinger.

We descended below the flat layer of cloud. Straight ahead is Mount Pollinger, with Kiwetinok Peak at the end of the second pass on the right. Directly behind Pollinger is Mt. Kerr.
Interesting rocks here. Big, with no real trail despite the number of people up here annually.

As we reached the crux as described by Kane, we took advantage of the excellent trail to the left. Near the end, we scrambled up the side, and then hiked back to the summit of Mount Pollinger.

The crux is a downclimb when taking the regular route from Kiwetinok Lake. The bypass route is on the left. There’s a good trail.
Looking back at the summit of McArthur, with a view of the ascent out of the basin to the saddle.

Distance to Mount Pollinger from McArthur summit is about 1.6 km, or 6.6 km from the Stanley Mitchell Hut.

Mount Pollinger to Kiwetinok Lake

From Mount Pollinger, we angled to the right, heading for Kiwetinok Lake. The edge rolled over, so we couldn’t tell what was below us. From this photo, it looks like we found a faint trail heading down. We kept to this angle, and then skirted the lake on the right (west) side of the shore.

Mike heading down. The normal up track is further right, closer to the base of Kiwetinok Peak. Mount Kerr is on the other side of Kiwetinok Lake, where my friends Jacek and Agnieszka were now descending.

As we were churning down this choppy rock, I felt an intense sensation that we had a direct radio line to Jacek and Agnieszka, who were scrambling Mount Kerr that day. We were two hours away from our next radio call, but I asked Mike to radio Jacek anyway.

He refused. “There’s no way he’ll have his radio on.”

I persisted. “That’s okay. Just try him.”

“No.”

“Mike! Radio Jacek NOW!”

“FINE!” Mike radiod Jacek. Jacek immediately responded, like he held the radio in his hand. Jacek DID have it in his hand, because he ALSO felt like we would be radioing him. He had just taken out his radio and turned it on when Mike’s call came through! Always listen to your hunches, especially in the mountains. We agreed to meet at the lake, and hike back together.

There were some cliff bands lower down, but they were easy to avoid.
Water draining into Kiwetinok Lake, with Mount Kerr at the far end. Kerr is actually two peaks, with the higher one being right behind the first.
My buddies Agnieszka and Jacek. I met them on an ACC Rocky Mountain Section trip to Tonquin Valley two years prior. I’d ski with them both after this, and then Agnieszka and I spent about 5 days at the Elizabeth Parker hut in the Lake O’Hara area the following summer.
Looking back at the route down from Mount Pollinger. The normal ascent route is straight back, closer to Kiwetinok Peak on the left. We came down far right.

Distance to the far end of Kiwetinok Lake from Mount Pollinger is about 1.7 km, or 8.4 km from the Stanley Mitchell Hut.

Kiwetinok Lake to Stanley Mitchell Hut

After we had a bite to eat, we put away our helmets, tied up our boots, and headed down. The scenery here is eerily stark, yet also incredibly beautiful.

To descend, cross the outflow and hike down with the stream on your right (south).
Looking back at the headwall that hems in the lake above. There are several nice waterfalls through this area. Look back often to see them.
Stark but stunning landscapes. It wasn’t too long ago that this was completely covered with snow and ice.
Working our way down and through the moraines from the President Glacier on our right. Straight ahead is the route to the Iceline Trail (accessed from the other side). The Secretary-Treasurer is rising up above the Iceline Trail on the right.
A moment of lush bliss. We stopped here to get a cool drink of water, and take off some layers as it was warming up nicely as we descended into the Little Yoho Valley.

We were soon at the crossing of the Little Yoho River, where we initially turned off to hike up the alternate route to Mount McArthur. We now retraced our steps back to camp.

Wrap Up

What an incredible day! I was so happy to summit McArthur and Pollinger, but even more happy to share these peaks with my special friends Sonya and Erin. It was also delightful to meet up with Jacek and Agnieszka, and catch up on the trail as we descended from the lake.

We spent the night at the hut with all the groups swapping tales of derring-do. I then got the four newbies to change the outhouse barrel. Loads of laughs with that.

If you missed the Whaleback Traverse, click here (coming soon). Join me for tomorrow’s hike out via the Iceline Trail (coming soon).

Thanks for reading! Please do me a huge favour and click the Star button to “Like” it. You can also follow my blog, join my FaceBook page Al’s Adventurers, or follow me on Instagram

Alisen

Unknown's avatar

I love all things mountains! I live next door to the Canadian Rocky Mountains, however I travel the world to enjoy the many different mountain environments and cultures that I can. I hope you enjoy these trip reports, and that it inspires you to accomplish your own adventure goals.

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10 comments on “Mount McArthur & Mount Pollinger
  1. another splendid hike

    💫🌿✨🦎☀️💖☮️⚛️♾️🦀🐉🙏🏻😌🙋‍♂️

  2. jacekkrolikowski's avatar jacekkrolikowski says:

    Thank you for refreshing our memories about this great trip Alisen!
    Our telepathy communication worked pretty well before we turned our radios on 🙂
    Meeting at Kiwetinok Lake was epic after we all were done with our objectives.

    • alisendopf's avatar alisendopf says:

      Hello Jacek,
      This was such a great weekend with you both. I always enjoy our time together in the mountains. We will have to plan something again soon.

      Alisen

  3. So amazing. Truly an epic trip! Love all the information and photos 🙂

  4. Navigation sounds tricky, especially with the snow. It’s too bad about all the fog as you neared the summit of Mount McArthur, but the conditions looked much better at the top of Mount Pollinger (minus the wind).

    • alisendopf's avatar alisendopf says:

      Yes, the fog and rainy weekend did put a damper on things. I missed out on getting one of the planned peaks, but that just means I’ll have to go again. Oh well 🙂

  5. Abirbhav's avatar Abirbhav says:

    Loved your trek as always.. But what piqued my interest is your coverage of glacial erosion, closely.. Geology has always fascinated me and thanks to you, I learnt something new..

    Be safe, keep trekking, keep exploring and keep teaching us more.. 🙂

    • alisendopf's avatar alisendopf says:

      Oh yes, the joys of travelling with a geologist. My friend Cathy is a PhD hydro-geologist, and she was kind enough to point out that feature on the rocks. I too learned something. I would spend another week with Cathy the following summer at Lake O’Hara where she spends a lot of time doing her field work. I was happy to have found a spring for her to explore there.

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