Centennial Ridge Traverse – Mount Allen Summit

September 10, 2022

I always wanted to summit Mount Allen, but what I really wanted was to traverse the entire Centennial Ridge. However, I wanted to do it in a very particular way. It’s a long day (8 hours), with some good elevation gain (1,390m). The last thing I wanted was to shuttle cars for the traverse. My solution? Convince another couple to come and hike in opposite directions!

Sonya and I (and Pyro) drove to the Ribbon Creek trail head near Nakiska. Meanwhile, Mike and Ross (and Sizzle) parked at the Wind Ridge / Pigeon Mountain trail head. We hiked towards each other, with the goal of meeting at the summit of Mount Allen. This is the highest point on Centennial Ridge, and the highest maintained trail in the Canadian Rockies.

This was definitely not a race, because the guys had further to go. I just want to say that, Sonya and I would have totally made the summit of Mount Allen on time if we didn’t get completely mesmerized by the amazing towering stones. And we may have totally lost the plot taking videos of the cute marmots. They were everywhere in the rock rubble, and were so happy to shout out that there was a dog nearby (always on a short leash).

Taking our time had a huge benefit though. Mike and Ross took nary a photo, and were down at the car in no time. We were supposed to meet at the Tim’s on Highway 40, but they got bored waiting for us. Instead, they bought us cold drinks and some treats, and met us at the Wind Ridge / Pigeon trail head. Well done ladies, well done!

Gear

Hiking boots, poles and regular day pack kit.

Overview

From the Ribbon Creek trail head, follow the signs in the forest to reach the ridge. Once on the open ridge, hike up to Olympic Summit. Hike across to the impressive cadomin formations. From there, hike up to the summit of Mount Allen. Descend the ridge to the north. Pass through the giant rock outcrop, with one steep down climb. Continue on ridge. Follow the signs to the right to avoid the cliff. Hike around the base. Find the ridge exit on the right, and hike down and then across. Connect with the Centennial Trail for a straight shot to the valley. Connect with Wind Ridge trail system to hike the short distance to the Wind Ridge / Pigeon Mountain trail head and parking.

Totals – Downloadable Tracks on Gaia and on Strava

Date: Sept 10, 2022
Group:  2 x 2 (Alisen & Sonya, and Mike and Ross)
Distance:  19.3  km
Elevation:  1,393 m (4,597′)
Time: 8 hours 10 minutes (includes lunch and breaks)

Sonya and I started at the Ribbon Creek trail head, and gained about 1,000 m to the first Olympic Summit. We continued on to the summit of Mount Allen, and then had a long hike off the ridge. The forest trudge to the Wind Ridge trail head felt like it took forever.
The easier way to summit Mount Allen is from the Ribbon Creek side. It’s a shorter distance, has a titch less elevation gain, and includes the iconic rock flakes. It is quite steep though. The Wind Ridge side has a long forest walk, but interesting rock walls for short bits of easy scrambling.

Parking and Trail Head

While the guys parked at the Wind Ridge / Pigeon Mountain trail head and hiked north to south, this trip report is from my point of view, going south to north. Sonya and I parked at the Ribbon Creek trail head, just off highway 40. This is a paved lot, with an outhouse, and a sign board.

We hiked through the gates, and started following the signs to guide us through the maze of trails.

The start of the Centennial Trail at the Ribbon Creek parking lot.
Please note and respect the closure for wildlife from April 1 to June 21st.

Main Trail

There are lots of cross-country ski trails here. The Centennial Ridge Trail is sometimes on them, and sometimes crosses these trails. I had a GPS with tracks, but I have to say the signage was excellent.

Almost immediately, we turned left to stay on the Centennial Trail. I’ve skied from here to Skogan Pass in the winter, and that’s a great work out.
Go left here – the blue sign has an arrow.
Take your next right. The trails are so wide for the cross-country ski grooming equipment.
The last intersection – go left.

After the final junction, there were still several signs to reassure nervous hikers that we were indeed still on the correct trail. From here, it is straight up, following the ridge to the summit.

There were still two or three signs in the forest for the Centennial Trail, but I don’t recall any other junctions. Enjoy the shade, because we didn’t see another tree for about 5 hours.
We gained a lot of elevation very quickly from the Ribbon Creek side.
There are a million excellent photo spots like this one. It was hard to choose which photos to include. This one shows the pointy knob I am aiming for.
I was feeling quite hot and sweaty at this point, and was maybe even panting a bit. When I see how hard Sonya is working to hike up this steep slope, maybe it was steeper than I thought.
This is the last bit of major elevation gain prior to the Olympic Summit. The trail goes to the right at the base of the rock band. Sonya and I were hoping for some scrambling to spice up this hike. We scrambled up the right side of those rocks. Super grippy rock.
The hiking trail goes around to the right, but Sonya and I wanted an extra challenge. Pyro is a great little climber and had no problem. Photo credit: Sonya Laing.

Olympic Summit

The first big milestone is Olympic Summit at about 5.1 km, and 1,025 m elevation gain. Time was 2 hours, 15 minutes. We are right above the top of the Gold Chair at Nakiska Ski Resort. Many people make this their hiking destination, which is a pretty good day at 10 km return. I had some giant stone flakes to see, so off we went.

The Olympic Summit Cairn. I don’t think this is a real summit, but it’s definitely the highest point on the ridge, other than Mount Allen. There is some elevation loss past this point, which is why many people turn around here.
When checking the mountain weather, “Nakiska Ridge Top” is one of the weather stations. Viola! Mount Collembola is behind.

I might have been tempted to pat myself on the back at this point. I sobered up when I looked up to the higher Mount Allen summit, and the long distance to get there. That put some umph in my step. Good thing, because I was soon to be slowed right down.

The view of the second cairn on the hike, with Mount Allen on the right.
Looking across to Mount Allen from the second cairn on the ridge. This is a reprieve from the steep stuff, and a most enjoyable hike. The massive Mount Lougheed is dominating the view to the west. Simply stunning – so thankful for clear skies to see this beauty.

Giant Rock Flakes

These rocks have to be one of the biggest reasons to hike Centennial Ridge. The whole area leading up to the rock flakes is stunning. Looking back at this ridge feels like I’m in Middle Earth. Sonya and I had so much fun exploring the rocks, and taking about 1 million photos. Sonya’s geologist friend told us afterwards that this is called a Cadomin Formation, and indicates coal and gas deposits.

The start of the interesting rock features. It looks like an ancient stone wall you’d find in Scotland.
This photo does not do this section justice. So many cool pictures, but had to focus on using a photo that also showed the route. Photo credit: Sonya Laing
Entering the Cadomin Formations! The giant flakes on the left are absolutely amazing. These are upthrusts from the slip-fold action that formed the Rocky Mountains.
The really big show! The twin block are amazing, with Wind Mountain and Mount Lougheed dominating the skyline behind.
It’s insane how thin these flakes are. True Rocky Mountain artwork.

Once we were through the big rocks, we had some short down-climbing off a tricky wall. It was then a long slog on an excellent scree trail to the summit of Mount Allen. It was on this section that Sonya educated me on all things menopause, and the science behind HRT. I was suffering from insane hot flashes, and needed some good information.

We met the guys just below the summit of Mount Allen. We took some photos, shared some lunch, and then we were both on our way again.

The top of the down climb. Still so gorgeous!
Sonya and Pyro climbing down the wall. Good grippy rock in dry conditions.
The short rock wall traversed for a ways. We just found a place to climb all the way down to the scree below.
Looking back at the Cadomin Formation, with the Olympic Summit on the horizon. I can just imagine Legolas, Gimli and Aragorn running through this, hunting down the orcs that stole Merry and Pippin. But I digress… 🙂 The lingering wild fire smoke actually makes the far mountains look pretty cool.
The scree has a great trail to the summit of Mount Allen. Mike, Ross and Sizzle are waiting for us. We had lunch here because the summit was quite windy and cold. The summit is just above.

Mount Allen Summit – Highest Point on Centennial Ridge

The trail to the summit of Mount Allen is a continuation of the scree trail, and is in excellent shape. Right below the summit there were some larger rocks, but it was obvious where to go. Don’t miss the giant lichen covered flat stone.

Distance to the summit of Mount Allen was 8 km, and an elevation gain of 1,393 m. Time to summit was 4 hours, 20 minutes, including dickering at the giant flakes, and eating lunch below the summit with the guys.

This amazing wall of lichen – all these colours at once is insane. No filter!
The marker at the summit of Mount Allen. Mount Collumbola is across, and Olympic Summit is on the right. Photo credit: Sonya Laing
Alisen on the summit of Mount Allen. Careful planning and good friends who were willing to hike in opposite directions made today possible. Photo credit: Sonya Laing
Looking down the summit ridge to the north Wind Ridge trail head. On the right is Pigeon Mountain. Along the back is Grotto Mountain. On the left is Wind Ridge, with the ridge to The Rimwall. Behind are the Three Sisters.

Descend to Wind Ridge Trail Head

There’s an initial steep section to get off the summit block, but then it’s a long traverse across the ridge. While this might seem tedious, it was anything but. There were a whole new set of mountains to ogle, and several good rock outcrops.

There are two steep down-climbs as we descended the ridge. These are short sections of hands on rock. Pure hikers might not like these sections, but experienced scramblers will have no issues.

Eyeing up our descent route. The topography on this side of Mount Allen is completely different. It truly feels like two separate mountains.
While the cairns might seem overkill, they usually indicated a change in direction. While hiking up, it’s easy to keep the summit in view and head for it. On the way down, minor route changes are a tad harder to suss out.
The next few photos are the route through the rock garden below.
Go left of this box.
This is the top of the first big down climb.
We are looking down the first short scramble, and then sussing out our route around the tall rocks below. The ridge continues past these, but how to get there…
At the bottom of the scramble, looking back up. A bit tricky with a dog.
Making our way down the rocks.
It’s faint, but there’s a trail going through here.
Looking back up.
Done! Through the giant rock outcrop.

Once we were past the giant rock outcrop, there was another ridge traverse. There was one more short down climb to the right, so we kept an eye on the cairns.

Cairns seem like overkill on a sunny clear day, but a sudden storm would obliterate the view. With such a wide ridge top, it’d be easy to wander away from the trail.
Don’t forget to look around. The towering walls of Mount Lougheed and surrounding peaks are stunning.
Looking back up to the summit of Mount Allen on the left. The rock crop is above.
This cairn is leading us off the ridge to the right. This leads down and around the cliff wall.
There are a series of poles to follow down and around.
Looking back up at the second scramble section. This one is shorter than the first.
Traversing around the base of the cliffs.
It’s pretty steep. For a hike, this is definitely a difficult one.
Looking back up at the rock we traversed.
Making our way down into the trees, and leaving the Mount Allen ridge.

Once down off the Mount Allen ridge, we hiked across to the Mount Collombola ridge. This is a continuation of the Centennial Ridge trail. We followed it all the way down to valley bottom. We finally connected with the Wind Ridge trail, and hiked to the Wind Ridge / Pigeon Mountain parking lot.

This final section through the trees was long and tiresome. We couldn’t wait to get done. However, as I love The Cure, we stopped at the creek prior to the trail head and soaked our tired and swollen feet. This gave the guys the extra time they needed to buy us a cold drink and drive to the trail head. Smart.

It’s steep heading down into the valley between the two ridges.
Hiking across to the other ridge through an avalanche slope. There are some markers to guide us across.
Once on the next ridge, we joined up with this giant trail – this is the continuation of the Centennial Trail. We hiked it all the way back to the parking lot.
We are very close to the end now, and connected with the Wind Ridge trail system.
At this bridge, we stopped for 10 minutes to soak our tired and swollen feet in the creek.
As we hiked through the parking lot, the guys just drove up and handed us a cold drink. I thankfully pulled off my dusty boots and enjoyed the ride home.

Wrap Up

The entire Centennial Ridge Traverse is an absolutely gorgeous hike that is a must-do for any summit hunter. I am so glad that I waited, and organized the full traverse with Sonya and Ross. The trails on either side of Mount Allen are so different, it’s like being on two separate mountains. If you can only do one side, most people go from the shorter Ribbon Creek side.

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Alisen

Unknown's avatar

I love all things mountains! I live next door to the Canadian Rocky Mountains, however I travel the world to enjoy the many different mountain environments and cultures that I can. I hope you enjoy these trip reports, and that it inspires you to accomplish your own adventure goals.

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Posted in Adventures, Hiking
4 comments on “Centennial Ridge Traverse – Mount Allen Summit
  1. Beautiful captures along the trail. The rock formations are impressive. Funny how the boys didn’t take any pictures. Go figure! But at least they were kind enough to bring you a cold drink and some treats afterwards.

  2. Diana's avatar Diana says:

    Hiking in opposite directions… smart! I love the colorful lichen photo, and of course all the summit views.

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