August 8-13th, 2022
Every year, there is a mad scramble to book backcountry campsites. Also every year, there are a lot of very disappointed people! This is because everyone is trying to book the same “hot” spots. There just aren’t enough spots to accommodate everyone.
I consider myself extremely lucky to have been backpacking for over 20 years. This meant I could backpack some of the more popular routes like The Rockwall and The Skyline back when it was a phone call (not a website), and almost no competition.
Not only are Canadians trying to book these coveted spots, but international tourists are also competing for spots. What to do? Get creative! There are hundreds of backcountry camping sites that no one talks about. It’s time to get out of the What’s Hot mentality, and go find your own adventure.
The Sawback Range
This range of mountains is known to everyone, simply because you have to drive past them every time you go to Banff and beyond to Sunshine or Lake Louise. You might recognize Mount Norquay, Mount Edith or Cory Mountain. These mountains are just the tip of iceberg. This range goes north to Mount Douglas, with the highest point being Mount St. Bride, clocking in at 3,312m.
Within this range are two very spectacular passes – Mystic Pass and Badger Pass. Have you heard of these passes? No? Well, read on and see why I’m so stoked about this and how you can do it too.
The Mystic Pass – Badger Pass Circuit
When my friend Erin booked this lollipop shaped backpack, we affectionately called it “The What’s Left Backpack”. This is because when the dust settled after the mad rush to book campsites, these spots were still available. Erin did some calculations, and put together a circuit that seemed doable for a week in the backcountry.
Why weren’t these sites snapped up? I’m not sure because the hiking was lovely, the views were epic, and the sites were just as good as everywhere else. Personally, I think it’s because routes like the Skyline Trail have a better marketing team 🙂 What I saw on this backpack rivals the views and scenery at the most coveted Hot Spots.
Gear Necessary for a Successful Backpack
I highly recommend a full backpacking setup. This includes sturdy (high ankle) hiking boots suitable to carry your weight plus your full load. Hiking poles and gaiters are also a great idea, especially if there are water crossings, or if there is wet weather. Dress for success. Rain pants and jacket are a must, as is long underwear. I’ve never regretted carrying a bit extra, as I’ve stayed warm and dry.
I use a lightweight two person tent – the Big Agnes Tiger Wall. It was quick and easy to set up by myself, and it withstood a pounding rain and hail storm. I use a lightweight sleeping bag, with an overbag so I can regulate my heat. A thermarest is mandatory.
Erin and I shared a stove and fuel, and we each carried our own eating utensils and cups.
Mystic Lake – Badger Pass Circuit Overview
The full circuit took us six days, but it’s possible (preferable?) to have a seventh day. Indeed, we did have a 7th night planned, but we elected to hike 19 km on our final day. The trip starts and ends at the Moose Meadows trailhead off the Bow Valley Parkway, just west of Johnson Canyon. The circuit starts at the Jo9 Larry’s Camp, and loops around to this point, with the return back to Moose Meadows.
Distances and Elevations.
Text colours match sections on the map below.
Click each Day to go directly to that Trip Report.
Day 1 Trailhead to Larry’s Camp: 8.5 km 385 m
Day 2 Larry’s to Mystic Junction: 17 km 717 m
Day 3 Mystic to Sawback Lake: 10.5 km 350 m
Day 4 Sawback to Block Lakes: 13.5 160 m
Day 5 Block to Luellen Lake, via Badger Pass: 19.4 km 753m
Day 6 Luellen to Trailhead: 19 km 202 m
Total Distance: 87.9 km Total Elevation: 2,567 m
Teaser Shots
Not sure you want to devote the time and energy? Hopefully these photos will persuade you. Of course, you don’t have to backpack the entire circuit – pick the areas you like best and make your own adventure. Want the full details? Easy – click the “Day” for each section below.
Day One – Moose Meadows to Larry’s Camp
Day Two – Mystic Pass and Mystic Lake
Day Three – Sawback Lake
Day Four – Block Lakes
Day Five – Badger Pass to Luellen Lake
Day Six – Luellen Lake to Moose Meadows Trail Head
I hope you enjoyed this overview of the Ultimate Sawback Range backpack! Now get out there, and enjoy an amazing adventure, right on your doorstep.
Alisen
I love all things mountains! I live next door to the Canadian Rocky Mountains, however I travel the world to enjoy the many different mountain environments and cultures that I can. I hope you enjoy these trip reports, and that it inspires you to accomplish your own adventure goals.
Alisen Dopf 
Gorgeous!
Thanks Cindy! It’s a great trip with amazing mountains and vistas.
beauty
✨🦋🐍🕊🐉🗝⚖🕯🤍⚛🎐🎋🙏✨
wow! lovely, lovely! Especially Block mountains and Flint’s Peak!
Right??? That was a special day – easy hiking with amazing views. A rarity in the Rockies!
Simply stunning, Alisen. Makes me wish I was there 😊
Well, hopefully this is the next best thing 🙂
Adding this trip to my bucket list..
Beautiful!
Yeah! That’s what I want to hear Brenda. So close, it’s easily overlooked. Let me know if you go, and how it was.
Alisen
“Wow” is right. This area is something else. I’ve never been to this part of the globe. Maybe one day . . .
So many beautiful places in the world to visit. One has to follow their heart in choosing the best destination for themselves. If this is the Canadian Rockies, then I’ll be happy to be your tour guide.
With gratitude, Alisen
Oh, I would if I could. 😀 … but ‘travelling’ with you is the next best thing. 😀
It’s crazy how camping and all things outdoors have become insanely popular in the last few years. But you’re absolutely right in terms of there being a lot of options. And that some of those options may surprise you in terms of how great they are. Besides, I’d rather take a less known trail if it means there will be less people around. Sounds like this was a successful multi-day adventure in the backcountry.
Twas truly a success, and I owe it to my friend Erin for thinking outside the box and finding an interesting and isolated place to backpack. She did a great job!
Hi Alisen, I came across your website as I am planning this same loop for September…. but due to time constraints and wondering if this could be done in 3 nights (so 17-20 km each day). The longest stretch would be Block Lakes Junction to Mystic Valley (going clockwise). Any advice appreciated!
Hello Alex,
Sorry for the late reply. I don’t always see the comments.
I think you could definitely remove Sawback Lakes and head straight from Block Lakes to Mystic Valley. This terrain was generally very flat, and uninteresting. We thought we could nap a peak near Sawback, but it would have been a terrible bushwack that we were not up to (bugs!).
To get to Block Lakes – where are you starting from? If it’s the Moose Meadows trail head via Badger Pass, that’s a long day.
Day 3 – Mystic Valley, over Mystic Pass and out via Larry’s is very doable.
So I guess I only have concerns over Day 1. Let me know where you are starting from.
Alisen
Hi Alison, no worries as the trip starts Sept 10. The plan is to hike Moose Meadows to Luellen Lake for night 1, then to Badger Pass for night 2, Mystic Valley for night 3, then back to Moose Meadows. So hopefully a nice 4 day loop and that the weather is not too cold! Will drop a note back on your blog to let you know how it goes (and any final pointers appreciated). Thanks!
Ah, that makes more sense. I agree with this itinerary. So glad you could book Luellen Lake as that is usually very busy.
I just got back from the Brazeau Loop, and it was CHILLY at night. Interestingly, the lower campsites were the coldest, as the cold air drained down into the valley. Usually had frost every morning. I would pack up my tent (dry) and store the fly and ground sheet separately on the outside of my pack. When we stopped for lunch, all the wet stuff came out and was dry in the sun and wind in no time. Much lighter! I also kept my tent away from the creeks and lakes, as those sites were colder. Hope that helps.
Yes – let me know how it goes.
Alisen
Will do… one more question… what sleeping bag warmth rating would you recommend? I have a 3 degree C rated bag and am thinking it might bot be warm enough. Thanks, Alex
I used a 3 degree bag and a synthetic overbag (which increases temp by 10 degrees) on my latest trip to Brazeau in late August. I was COLD. My buddy used her -9 bag and was warmer. We both wore toques to bed, and I also wore my long underwear and my down puffy. I put a light towel over my bag and was much warmer, but the air was so freezing. I slept with the bag over my head all night. I am also using a super lightweight tent with a screen mesh instead of a solid wall. If your tent is solid wall (ripstop nylon) then you’ll be warmer and 3 degree bag can work great.
Not sure when your trip is planned. Mid summer the 3 degree bag might be just fine. I used it on my Skyline trip, and was super warm without the overbag.
Alisen
Hi Alisen, I owe you my update from my Aug 31 post. My son and I completed the loop in 3 nights (Moose Meadows, Luellen Lake, Block Lakes Junction, Mystic Valley, Moose Meadows) in mid-Sept. Some long days but great scenery and solitude (only saw 3 other groups in the entire trip once we got past the Ink Pots) and was a great trip. On the sleeping bag question.. in the end I splurged and bought minus 7 rated sleeping bags from MEC. I think we might have had 1-2 nights at 2-3 degrees so this was more than enough. More importantly though was to psychologically know that no matter what the weather would have been, we would be warm and toasty at night. So that in itself is the answer… you can’t really err when having a bag maybe a bit warmer than you ever need. Keep up the blog and thanks for sharing!
Hey!
So glad to hear from you, and that you got it done. Beautiful scenery and no one is there.
Glad you splurged and stayed warm. September can be hit or miss so better to err on the warm side.
I do have a warmer bag. It’s -20 or something crazy. I take it mountaineering when I am sleeping next to a glacier. It’s heavier than my bag/overbag together, so I tend to leave at home during the summer. I think I need to replace my +3 bag as it’s looking a bit bare in spots.
Thanks for reading and the encouragement. So glad you found the blog useful and had a great trip.
Alisen